Joy Sublime Joy Forever
Joy Sublime Joy Forever
The story behind Jean Patou perfumes
Jean Patou, with a history of 100 years, is a high standard customize perfume brand that was created in Paris at the beginning of last century. Only the perfumes remain today. Famous tailors such as Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier, have all worked for him. For Thomas Fontaine, the current Jean Patou perfumer, “Jean Patou has a culture of quality. Perfume brands that could rival with it are rare: Hermès, Guerlain, Chanel, Lubin, there are no more than five of them.”
In 1925, Jean Patou issued three perfumes : 'Que sais-je', 'Amour Armour' and 'Adieu sagesse'. Together, they tell a love story : when a woman meets a man, she first asks herself how much she knows of him : Que sais-je ? (How much do I know?) She is then immersed in love: Amour Amour (Love love). In the end she falls in his arms: Adieu Sagesse (Farewell wisdom).
In 1930, the economic crisis affected Patou’s American clients in Haute couture. The fragrance 'Joy' was intended as a gift for Patou’s most loyal American client, he hoped that 'Joy' would be like a good medicine in the crisis, and literally bring them joy.
For Elsa Maxwell, Jean Patou business partner : "In the sale of perfumes, ‘Joy’ is the symbol of elite quality, just like a Rolls Royce is to cars.” ‘Joy’ is considered the most costly perfume in the world, not because its price is the highest of the market, but because the best quality ingredients are used in its making. All these ingredients come from the flower fields of Grasse city. The main components in ‘Joy’ are May roses and jasmine from Grasse. For a 50cl of Joy, 35.000 euro worth of jasmine are necessary, the price of a car, not to mention the price of May roses.
Another special perfume of Jean Patou is '1.000', made in 1927 by the perfume master of the time, Jean Kerléro, after three years of work and more than a thousand experiments, by combining osmanthus flowers with the characteristic Patou central fragrance of rose and jasmine, which makes a chypre that gives smoothness.
'Le Sublime' was an eastern-styled perfume made by Jean Kerléro in 1992, with touches of vetiver and oriental vanilla, the head of the perfume is iris, the symbol of Parisians grace.
This year, Thomas Fontaine has not only reedited these three institutional perfumes, but also issued a new perfume for women, 'Joy Forever', which is his interpretation of 'Joy'. “It’s an easier way of reaching ‘Joy’ for ladies who don’t have yet the necessary knowledge to understand it. It has a very green floral scent, a sparkling head of iris, starting with mandarine, then a rose scent tainted with orange, a tail of musky sandalwood, and ambergris.”
Decode the perfumes
For Thomas Fontaine : “Luxury is not a product, but a path of initiation. Luxury needs the consumer to invest into learning, to decipher, and it presents some degree of difficulty, for it must not be within anyone’s range. To appreciate a perfume, one needs to have a certain knowledge of the culture of fragrance.”
The world of perfumes uses some technical terms, for example, iris scent is called powdery; a green scent is like freshly cut grass, galbanum, hyacinthus; a citric scent is for cardamom and lemon. But each perfumer has a different interpretation of the scented ingredients. As Thomas Fontaine explains: “Perfume is the product of the spirit, as our feelings and cultural backgrounds are different, all this will be expressed in our recipes.”
In perfumery, they also use technical terms common with music. They talk about notes, chords, melody, harmony, etc, even the perfume stand is called an organ. A composer needs to first write down his music sheet first, then play it on the piano to check the result. Perfumers do the same. Their music sheet is the composition of their perfume, measuring, smelling to check the fragrance of the perfume and the harmony between the different notes.
Perfume shows a kind of refinement, people don’t choose a perfume by chance. One can change perfume according to one’s mood, but it will always match their personality and taste. When you wear a perfume, it does not only complete the clothing, but also expresses your personality, and nurtures your charms.
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